I overheard this today while climbing and thought that the topic was worth a post. I think most people have been steered in this direction when purchasing their first pair of rock shoes. Some common things people say are "They should be so tight they hurt a bit." or "Your toes should bend at the end of the shoe." While you do want your shoe to fit in a way that it gives you the ability to edge, if they are your first climbing shoes you really want them to guarantee one thing: COMFORT!
Who wants to go climbing when you are putting your feet into painful shoes? Too often I see people that have shoes two sizes too small struggling to even put pressure on their feet. When you are first starting to climb a large emphasis is on remaining in balance and engaging your legs and feet, so an appropriately sized shoe is a necessity.
There are several shoes on the market that provide all day comfort for climbers of all abilities. Here are a few:
http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/65-anasazi-moccasym
A slipper style shoe that makes it easy to take on and off at the crag. Notice at the toe that it is not too aggressive, or bent.
Here is a much more aggressive, sport climbing and bouldering specific shoe:
http://lasportiva.com/catalogue/catalogo.php?cat=10&cod3=230&Language=EN
A classic lace up. This style of lace up has been around for a very long time and La Sportiva has decided not to change too much about this shoe. It has lasted the test of time and continues to be a great shoe for beginners to experts. The lace up gives you the ability to loosen the shoe in order to stay comfortable throughout the day on longer days climbing.
Every brand of shoe has a bit different feel and some fit quite differently on different feet. Stop in a store and try on several before making a purchase.
And remember, keep 'em comfy!
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